Not Tattoos

If you've seen the incredible movie The Whale Rider, you know New Zealand is home to an indigenous people called the Maori. I don't know much about them yet, but I've gotten some library books out to supplement the visceral experience of seeing Maori daily on the street; in the stores; skateboarding on the boardwalk outside by our hotel.

The Maori have much darker skin than Caucasians. Not black. No relation to an African American skin color. It is more of an inky, caramel soft, sometimes even blue-gray. And many many times, the Maori have tattoos. On their faces. The women sometimes have these tattoos on their lips, above their noses, and down onto their chins. I am fascinated when I see these women; but immediately must not STARE. That would be rude. And intrusive. They are after all just buying tomatos or pushing a baby stroller or crossing the street. With these fantastic scrolls etched into the lips and rippling down their chins. The men have the markings up and down their arms. Like long sleeves. They are usually blue/black ink and against the grey/caramel skin, looks a bit translucent. Yesterday I saw a man in the Pak 'N Save whose ENTIRE FACE was covered by tattoos. And these aren't "Elvis" or "Mom" or horrible skeletons or daggers or other scary motorcycle gang tattoos. They are like hieroglyphics. Like an exotic Braille. Like Arabic or Chinese characters intermeshed with a mosaic or fresco pattern.
Today I am doing my "wandering about town, stopping into anything that looks remotely like a place that could hire me...as a volunteer" and I happen upon the Community Law Center. Hmmm...looks interesting. The center is on the corner off the main street. It looks like a small office I might see in Evanston or Palo Alto - part of the university. I walk in and introduce myself and seek work. The director, Robyn, invites me in for tea. We are joined by Chakhan [my parents named me after the singer Chaka Kan she shrugs] and Lee Lee, the receptionist. We sit in the kitchen of the Community Law Center and discuss whether or not I might be able to do some workshops for them. On business topics. I'm feeling very Eat Pray Love about the experience. Robyn has one of these cool tattoos on her shoulders. I ask her about it. I mention I've seen women with tattoos on their lips and chins.
They are NOT tattoos, she informs me. Not angrily, but very matter of fact. For the next few minutes, the three of them explain that these are geneology symbols - graphic life stories - of the Maori. Robyn proceeds to point to various figures and explains her tribal history; the two twin brothers...one of whom was murdered...the witch doctor...etc., Lee Lee then lifts her sleeve and she has these markings - called MOKO - from her fingers all the way up her arm. She proudly points to her tribal markings and mentions an odd grandmother and some of her family history. All carved into her skin. And the women with the chins? The ultimate status symbol, I learn. Very rare. Almost like the sign of a high priestess. I'm so humbled. I've been looking at these MOKO with a wee bit of cultural racism. These are cultural masterpieces. If you are interested, check out the web site of the most famous of these MOKO masters, Mark Kopua: http://www.tepapa.govt.nz/TePapa/English/Learning/OnlineResources/Moko/ArtistBios/MarkKopua/
I've uploaded a couple of photos of Mark making a carving.

I'm going to study up on this. I want to know all about it. There is an entire language here..in the symbols...and people carry their personal stories on them - almost branded - and with such pride.

I have so much to learn....